Fun for the every day dog - Keep your pets active, happy & healthy.

Well, it’s the time of year to again get out the battle gear and combat that awesome pest…the flea. Flea season is upon us (April-September) and since an adult flea can live and breed well over 100 days on your pet if not disturbed, we have quite a task ahead if we don’t take some preventive measures early on:

* Vacuum frequently- all floors and carpets, stairs and under beds too.

* Wash pet bedding frequently.

* Use a safe topical treatment, flea powder, spray or other product. Follow the product instructions provided carefully.

* Ask your vet about topical treatments like Frontline - this product kills adult fleas, and makes them unable to reproduce, cutting your combat time in half.

* Brush and comb your dog frequently.

* Bathe him/her if heavily infested.

* Spray the house with a flea product at least once a week, under beds, couches, etc.

It might be tough to see fleas, but they certainly make their existence known - especially to your pet.

WARNING SIGNS
The first step to stopping a flea-for-all is to be aware of their presence. Keep an eye out for the warning signs that fleas have set up shop on your pet!

BLACK SPECKS — black specks on your pet or in your pet’s bed could be flea dirt, which is feces from the adult fleas. There are two easy ways to check for black specks:

Flea Comb — available from your veterinarian (the metal ones are the best). Run the comb over your pet, making sure the comb reaches the skin through the coat. If black specks are on the comb when you pull it off, they may be flea dirt. If fleas are on the comb, drown them in a bowl of soapy water before they can get away or jump back on your pet.

White paper towel — place a white paper towel beneath your pet and rub your hands across its fur. If black specks appear on the towel, they may be flea dirt.

The following steps can also be taken to prevent ticks from harming your pet:

YARDWORK — you can remove tick habitats from your yard by keeping tall grass clipped, removing any mulch or leaf litter and trimming bushes.

AVOID TALL GRASS OR BRUSH — keep your pet far away from these tick breeding grounds.

EXAMINE YOUR PET — examine your pet thoroughly every day for ticks. Although ticks prefer attaching to your pet’s head, neck and paws, you should still try to cover as much of your pet’s body as he/she will allow.

Don’t despair: if you follow through with the steps above, you’ll end up ahead of the battle. As always the best combat is prevention-good luck!

Socializing dogs with other dogs is a crucially important aspect of raising a puppy. Dogs learn from other dogs how to communicate with each other. Communication in dogs is not as subtle as you might think once you know what to look for.

Most of us acknowledge when a dog does a play bow (front end down, rear end up) it is a friendly gesture that invites another dog to play. But did you realize when two dogs approach each other from a distance and begin sniffing the ground they are actually communicating friendliness ?

Turid Rugaas, a dog trainer from Norway has spent years observing dogs and the ways they tell each other through their body language that they want to get along. She believes that dogs, like their wolf cousins, are dependent upon their communication skills to cooperate with other members of their pack. Cooperation, not aggression or conflict, is the key to survival for any canine species.

Dogs have inherited this way of communicating through body language from their wild ancestors. This language is further developed within their litter and later with dogs they meet and play with. Eventually, they become fluent in being able to communicate their intentions with any other dog.

If dogs are not socialized with other dogs or are taken away from their litter too young, they never become fluent in their own language, becoming social outcasts. These are dogs that “go nuts” when they see another dog, either in exuberance or aggression or fear. They behave inappropriately and are not able to read any of the calming signals exhibited by normal dogs.

If you don’t socialize your dog with other dogs of all breeds and ages he will never be a normal dog. These are the dogs that attack other dogs without warning and seem uncontrollable even when the other dog is displaying very obvious calming, friendly signals. Dogs as a group are supposed to get along with members of their own kind. If we would only socialize them more (with lots of different ages and sizes of dogs) their quality of life would be that much better. Some examples of calming signals dogs use to communicate peaceful intentions:

Yawning- how many times has your dog yawned at the vet or when you’ve yelled at him ? Dogs yawn to calm themselves or you or another dog and to communicate no harm.

Sniffing the ground- how many times has your dog started busily sniffing the ground when you’ve called him in a harsh or worried voice? It may have made you more angry but it was meant to calm you down.

Sneezing - have you ever watched two dogs playing somewhat roughly and then one dog starts to sneeze as he plays? That sneeze is not the same as an itchy nose, it’s a signal that tells the other dog that this is play and helps keep it from escalating into something more serious.

Head turning- when your dog greets a strange dog or person have you ever seen him turn his head or eyes to the side or even turn completely sideways. This head turning isn’t snobbish behavior it says “I mean you no harm”.

Pawing - have you ever met a young puppy that was insistent on greeting you by raising it’s paw? All this while you thought you were teaching it to shake, when in reality the pup was teaching you how to be friendly and inviting you to play.

This is just a handful of all the neat ways that dogs communicate with us and with each other. Once you start observing dogs interacting with each other you will never look at dogs the same way again. It is an exciting peak into the world of canine language and is a joy to watch in an experienced dog.

Punishment has no place in the teaching phase of a dog’s education!

Reinforcement can take many forms, click and treat, saying ” good dog”, a pat on the head, a short game of fetch. No matter what the reward, the behavior connected with it will get repeated. If we wish to perpetuate good behavior we must reward it in some shape or form.

As dog owners we tend to think of our dog’s behavior in terms of what we don’t want the dog to do; not jump, not pull, not run away. Instead, we should define what we what our dogs to do instead; sit, walk by our side, come when called. Often times because there is no clear behavior that gets rewarded, dog owners resort to punishment in the effort to get rid of the behavior they don’t want.

The problem with punishment is that it is only half of the equation. Punishment stops the dog from doing whatever he was doing at that moment, it does not teach the dog what you wanted him to do instead. In fact if you only punish a dog without rewarding him for what you want instead, the dog will adapt to the punishment and revert to the old behavior. Punishment has very limited uses because it usually requires that we deliver the correction at the moment the dog is doing the wrong thing. Most of us can’t move that quickly, and the dog gets away with the behavior when we are not present. We then begin the vicious cycle of increasing punishment to try to catch the dog doing the wrong thing. All this effort to punish the dog and we still haven’t taught him anything !

Our efforts as teachers, trainers and companions to our dogs would best be spent reinforcing the right behavior rather then punishing the wrong one. Training collars like choke chains, pinch collars and head halters (gentle leaders) are just training aids. Their purpose is to help manage the dogs behavior so that he can be right more often and get rewarded for it. Used incorrectly, they become a game of jerk on the dog, dog repeats the behavior. This becomes a literal black hole of paying attention to the wrong behavior and no real learning is accomplished.

A dog who is not reinforced for walking next to you on for instance may learn not to pull but only when wearinga pinch collar. With the collar on the dog may learn that pulling is not a good idea but when the collar is off he reverts back to his old behavior because it works.. He goes places fasten when he pulls on his leash.

Leash corrections with or without a training collar manage a behavior like pulling and help us control the dog but that is all, they do not teach the dog to heel. In fact some dogs with big thick necks and a high pain tolerance will still pull while wearing them. The bottom line is if you don’t reward the dog for not pulling the dog will not learn to walk next to you. He may learn to avoid correction, but he won’t have a clue as to what you really want.

Head halters, gentle leaders, and other training head collars help control the head and therefore keep the dog from pulling. These do not require any corrections and are a more humane alternative to repeated corrections with a training collar. This again is a training aid, a way to manage the behavior of pulling while you reward the dog for not pulling. Honesty about what we are really teaching is very important if we are to fix unwanted behavior. Punishment really has no place in the teaching phase since we have not yet explained to the dog what we want him to do instead. Training collars and head halters may keep you from being knocked down by your dog on a walk, but they only manage the pulling they do not teach the dog how to walk on a leash.

Punishment is rewarding to us as dog owners because we feel as though we’ve at least done something ! It is gratifying to us at least at first because the dog temporarily stops the behavior we don’t like.

Punishment has a price however that few people take into consideration. That price involves a lack of control over what the dog actually learns when he is punished. A dog that growls at children and is punished with a slap or collar correction may stop growling at children but still be fearful of them.

Punishment in this case has made the aggression worse because we have suppressed the warning that the dog is not feeling comfortable and skipped right to the bite. If we then punish the dog for biting, we have in effect taught the dog that children are even more scary than he thought and he must bite harder, faster to avoid correction next time. These type of dogs start to believe the best offense is a good defense. All this energy has been expended and all we’ve accomplished is a better biter ! No amount of effort has been used to address the dog’s real reason for biting….he’s uncomfortable or fearful around children.

How much better if the punisher had spent time rewarding the dog when children were nearby in a happy voice with plenty of treats and at a distance. How much safer for child, trainer and dog if the punisher had spent his time rewarding the dog for not growling, lunging or snapping and made the sight of children mean good things were about to happen.

Overall, punishment is only half the equation, it has no place in the teaching phase. If it is used to manage behavior the right behavior must be rewarded instead. Most importantly, punishment should not be used in cases of aggression because we never know what the dog is learning. There is a better way to train your dog and it’s up to you to find it.