T-touch for dogs can be performed by any owner and its benefits are amazing. Animals who start out frantic and hyper become relaxed while being treated. Tellington touch can also improve an animals ability to learn . It can be used for nervous dogs who are fearful of loud noises, people or other dogs. It can be used to help aggressive dogs relax and learn new alternatives to aggression.

So how do you get started ? Here are some examples of T-touch techniques to try on your dog:

The T-touch is based upon the circular movement of the fingers all over the dogs body. It’s function is to wake up cells and improve the flow of energy within the dogs body. To begin, imagine the face of a clock on your dogs body about 1″ in size. Curve your fingers slightly at the 6 o’clock mark and move in a clockwise circle one an a quarter times around the clock. Don’t bear down too hard as you make your circle, just enough to move the skin. Pick up your hand and move to a new spot and make another circle. You can do circles in a straight line or randomly all over the body. The benefits are equal, see what your dog likes. Remember to breathe as you gently work on your dog and keep the first sessions short, less than 5 minutes. Give him time to adjust to this new way of interacting with you.

Another type of touch that is useful in relaxing dogs is Ear T-touch. There are several different ways in which you can work the ears. The simplest is to get behind your dog, place the rest of your fingers under the earflap and slide the ear through your thumb and index finger. Experiment with the speed and pressure and see what effect it has on your dog. Another type of ear touch involves making circles at the base of the ear or all along the length of the flap with your fingertips.

T-touch principles work similarly to accupressure. The pressure of touch stimulates the body to heal itself, relax itself and otherwise improve the quality of life and health. No matter how clumsy you feel at first keep practicing in short sessions and gradually increase their length if your dog seems to be enjoying himself. You may find that spending time with your dog in this way is the best part of your day!

Recommended Dog Massage Books & DVD’s

SNOW PROOF YOUR DOG
In northern climates throughout the world, dogs live and play outdoors quite comfortably in extreme temperatures. In many parts of the United States, however, dogs are used to living in climate-controlled homes. These dogs lack conditioning to cold weather, and need to be protected and acclimated to the lower temperatures. A good rule of thumb, then, is to be safe: slowly introduce your dog to the cold weather. Then, enjoy!

We humans put on warm clothes to venture into the snow, but most dogs can dispense with added layers. Large breeds and heavily coated dogs usually do just fine in the cold. It is extremely unlikely that these dogs will suffer frostbite or hypothermia on an outdoor jaunt, even in the coldest of weather, especially if you make sure to keep them moving. However, if your pet is a small, fragile breed with little body fat (such as Chihuahuas, Italian greyhounds, whippets, miniature pinschers, and so on), or just a small house dog that shivers in cold weather, I suggest that you purchase a warm winter coat or sweater made just for dogs.

LIVING OUTDOORS:

If you intend to house your dog in an outdoor enclosure in a cold winter area, take some common-sense precautions. If your dog will live outdoors for a period of time, make sure he has access to a shelter that is wind-free and dry. Use wood chips or straw for insulation in the enclosure. They’ll keep your dog much warmer and dryer than rugs or mats.

FROSTBITE: Some people worry that their dogs will get frostbite from running around in bare feet in the snow. Fortunately, dogs have remarkable collateral circulation in their legs and toes, which makes frostbite of these body parts rare. However, dogs can suffer from frostbite elsewhere, especially in the genital areas. If these areas are reddened, thickened, and not pliable to the touch, this is an emergency. Call a veterinarian immediately.

HYPOTHERMIA: Most dogs are quite resistant to hypothermia except under extreme cold conditions seen in the very northern United States, and in Canada and Alaska. Certain breeds of dogs, however, have coat textures that tend to cause snow to stick to their coat. These “snow balls” can melt next to their skin and significantly lower their body temperature. Inspect your dog’s coat from time to time to make sure this isn’t a problem.

SALT: Many people wonder if the salt dumped on urban streets to melt snow is a problem for dogs. In theory, high salt concentrations can cause irritation between a dog’s toes, and licking and swallowing a lot of salt can promote some gastrointestinal distress. Washing your dog’s feet after a walk should take care of most of the problem. If you have a lot of salt in your area, you may want to consider purchasing “booties.” However, it has been my observation that the salt is far more damaging to the vegetation than to the dogs!

THE ADVANTAGES
Walking or running with your dog does more than increase your physical and cardiovascular health, it can also help:

• Boost your mood
• Lower your blood pressure
• Strengthen your bond with your pet
• Keep you motivated to exercise regularly (your dog will bug you to stay on your routine)

WHAT YOUR DOG GETS OUT OF THE DEAL
Going for runs or walks with your pooch isn’t just good for you; it’s good for your dog too!  Exercising keeps your dogs heart, lungs, joints, digestive and circulatory systems healthy. 

I’m sure you’ve noticed your dog bouncing and zooming around the house in attempt to burn up their excess energy.  Exercising with your dog will help expend excess energy and control your dog’s weight. 

Regular exercise can also keep your pet’s not so fantastic behaviors in check. 

It can help prevent the sometimes destructive behavior hyperactive or anxious dogs have, like chewing, biting and digging.

KEEP IN MIND
Dogs can run (or walk) farther and faster than people, but that doesn’t mean your fur-baby should leap off the sofa and run for miles.  Gradually build up the distance when beginning.  Start with short walks/runs and slowly over time extend the distance to something you are both comfortable with.

Be careful to keep puppies from over exercising.  Strenuous activity for long periods of time can damage their developing bones and joints.  Follow the same rule with dogs that are older or recovering from illness or injury, it may be better to take it easy and exercise for shorter periods of time.  Switch your half hour run to two 15 minute walks.  Swimming is a great alternative for recovering pets.

Exercising in the middle of the day when the sun is at it’s hottest, can cause your pet to get heat stroke.  The best times to run/walk with your dog is dusk, dawn or anytime after dark.

THE ULTIMATE REWARD
Don’t feel like exercising?  It won’t just be your daily exercise that you’re blowing off, but your loving companions too.  Exercising with your dog will keep you motivated to stay on track and get healthy together.  Besides, what could be better than spending quality time with your best friend?

Tips for Protecting Your Dog’s Paws

1. In hot weather, walk you dog in grassy areas as much as possible to avoid burning of the paws.
2. In cold weather, consider having your dog wear booties to prevent contact with ice and de-icing chemicals (plus it’s really funny watching them get used to wearing booties).
3. Once inside, wipe off your dogs paws.
4. Inspect your dogs paws after every walk or run

Think about getting booties for you dog.  These can protect your dog’s feet not only from harsh chemicals, but also from broken glass that might be hidden by snow and ice. 

Here’s a link to a website that sells them: Dog Boots
Chemicals used to melt ice and snow are harmful to your pet.  Don’t let your dog eat the ice and snow in a neighbor’s yard.  You never know what chemicals they could have used to speed up melting.  And, many neighborhood streets are sprayed with chemicals by the highway department.   

If your dog is like mine, he LOVES to catch snowballs.  Roll balls of snow from your own yard or any other source you know doesn’t use chemicals.  Don’t dig down to get a handful, skim off the top.  This will minimize the chance of picking up rocks and sticks that could hurt your dog.  Push the snow together only enough to keep its shape for you to toss.  Packing it down tight might hurt your dog when he catches it.Always check your dog’s paws after playing in snow or ice.   It’s a good idea to wipe your dog’s paws with clean warm water after a walk in the neighborhood.  After your dog has had a good day’s play in the cold, wash and dry them off thoroughly.  Then check the pads of each paw.  Look for swelling.  Nicks and cuts as well as abrasions could cause infections.   If you don’t find anything, watch your pet to see if he licks his paws.  This may be a sign of an injury and the main reason you rinse your dog’s paws off after a walk.  Check him again.  If you find something, clean the wound gently.  For a serious cut, contact your vet or local animal emergency hospital.  Don’t let it fester before seeking help.Once you’ve checked your dog and everything is okay, treat him or her to a nice gentle leg massage.  This will stimulate circulation and keep his paws nice and toasty. Sit beside your dog and take one leg in both hands.  Make slow circular movements with your thumbs as you work down from the top of the leg to the paw.  Use a steady, light pressure.  When you reach the paw, take one finger and slide it between the toes.  If your dog doesn’t like this, then stop.  Otherwise, continue between the toes using only one finger.  Don’t push the toe outward, keep it in its natural line.  Only apply enough pressure for your finger to glide through.As always, offer your pet fresh clean water after any massage.  This helps flush out toxins from the muscles that can be released during massage.

Have a fun, safe, and healthy winter!

Christmas is a fun time of year for dogs and cats, but for our own pets safety we have to remember that they don’t always use the best judgement. Our pets lack in good judgement and our lack of foresight can be dangerous.

By following a few common sense Christmas rules you can keep your pet safe this holiday season.

1. If you know your pet is going to rip into presents while you are gone, make sure you either put your presents out of reach or use wrapping paper with non-toxic dye.
2. If your cat loves to climb, don’t leave them access to the Christmas tree when you are not around. Don’t let your cat climb the Christmas tree. The tree could fall on your cat, or the cat could get tangled up in the lights .
3. Turn off your Christmas lights when you leave the house.
4. Poinsettias are poisonous, don’t leave them around your pets.
5. Chocolate is poisonous to dogs, don’t leave gifts under the tree that contain chocolate. Your dog will sniff them out.
6. If you have a puppy, unplug everything. Do you have candle lights in the windows? Unplug them. Your puppy will chew on the cord, which will give them a giant shock.

Every house hold is different. You better then anyone else knows your pet’s personality. Take a look around your home and access the possible dangers. Chances are you will find many.   The best gift you can give your pet is a safe Christmas.

In this blog, we’ll look at some tips that can help your dog lead a happier, healthier life.  Take a look at the massage video posted here at www.caninegames.com for massages you can do at home.  It will get you started on helping your pet feel their best.

Remember, although massage is a safe and gentle procedure, it is never a substitute for regular veterinary care.  You should always consult with your vet before using any treatment he or she is not aware of.  Verify with the vet that your pet doesn’t have any condition that massage might make worse.  Always offer your dog clean fresh water after a massage.  This helps flush out toxins and other waste from your dog’s muscles.  Also, massage is a useful addition to veterinary care, not a substitute. Always keep your vet informed about any outside treatments.

For more information, see the contact information below:

Stephanie Whitehead

Canine Massage Therapist
Paws for Health of Virginia, LLC
9947 Hull Street Road
Suite 244
Richmond, VA  23236
pawsforhealthofva@yahoo.com
804-986-4675

Click here to view the embedded video.

It will be pretty much the same as your warm-up massage with three differences.  First, you want a little bit firmer pressure than you used for the warm-up massage.  Where you wanted to wake up the muscles with the warm-up, the cool-down massage helps the blood to move wastes out of the muscles to where they can be eliminated. 
 
You also want your movements to be slower and more fluidly connected.  This helps to relax tense muscles and calm your dog.  Again, use the strokes you did for the warm-up, but make them longer, a bit heavier pressure, and slower.
 
Third, although you will still use an open palm, you want to turn your hands around.  Where you were stroking down the body with your palm leading your fingers in the warm-up massage, now you want your fingers to lead.  This feels like a pushing motion and that’s what you’re doing, helping to push toxins and blood through the muscles.  This helps blood flow assist the body in removing toxins like lactic acid from the muscles. 
 
As with the warm-up routine, you’re using the same pattern.  Down the spine from the crown to rump, around the jaws, and over the snout.  Repeat this sequence three or four time or for between five and ten minutes.  Just slow it down and make the strokes longer and firmer.  Note any tension or “flinching” responses from your dog.  These are areas that may need a bit longer massage or even heat or ice therapy.  If your dog shows marked flinching, check with your vet to make sure it isn’t a pulled muscle.  Check the paws, too, for any injuries.  After the massage, offer your pet clean, fresh water.
 
Contact Information:
 
Stephanie Whitehead
Paws for Health of Virginia, LLC
9947 Hull Street Road, Suite 244
Richmond, VA  23236
804-986-4675
pawsforhealthofva@yahoo.com
 

Remember, although massage is a safe and gentle procedure, you should always consult with your vet before using any treatment he or she is not aware of.  Verify with the vet that your pet doesn’t have any condition that massage might make worse.  Always offer your dog clean fresh water after a massage.  This helps flush out toxins and other waste from your dog’s muscles.  Also, massage is a useful addition to veterinary care, not a substitute.  Always keep your vet informed about any outside treatments.

Click here to view the embedded video.

You want to use an open palm.  Start with a brisk, light rub down from the crown of your dog’s head to the rump.  You want to use light, even strokes, one after the other.  Keep your hands loose and open and use a brushing stroke, one hand after the other, with your palm leading.  You don’t want to use a lot of pressure here; just enough to better stimulate the blood flow.

Use the tips of your fingers to gently massage the large muscles of the jaw.  Trace lightly over the snout and top of the head again, repeating the open-handed brushing strokes.  Repeat this stroke routine about three or four times in it’s entirety.
 
Do a light massage on the large muscle groups down the legs by using your thumbs to trace small, even circles across the entire muscle.  Be careful not to apply a lot of pressure.  You are looking to get the blood flow to the muscles, not to do deep relaxation.  Blood flow helps the muscles work better, move better, and be more flexible.  This helps your dog avoid injury and minimize soreness after a strenuous day.
 
Keep your massages short, between five and ten minutes.  Offer fresh water and a bathroom break afterwards, then enjoy your day.
 
Contact Information:
 
Stephanie Whitehead
Paws for Health of Virginia, LLC
9947 Hull Street Road, Suite 244
Richmond, VA  23236
804-986-4675
pawsforhealthofva@yahoo.com

Remember, although massage is a safe and gentle procedure, you should always consult with your vet before using any treatment he or she is not aware of. Verify with the vet that your pet doesn’t have any condition that massage might make worse. Always offer your dog clean fresh water after a massage. This helps flush out toxins and other waste from your dog’s muscles. Also, massage is a useful addition to veterinary care, not a substitute. Always keep your vet informed about any outside treatments.

This video gives detailed information on finding your pets pulse and how to administor CPR to your pet. 

Click here to view the embedded video.

When accidents happen, do you know how to administor first aid or CPR to your pet?  I know the last thing any of us wants to think about is the bad things that can happen to our four-legged family members.  This is why we need to be prepared. 

Being prepared and versed in pet first aid and pet CPR can save the life of your pet.  Check with your local parks and red cross facilities to find out where you can attend a pet CPR and first aid training class.

In the Richmond, VA area pet CPR classes can be taken at Breath of Fresh Air. 

ABC’s (Airway, Breathing, Circulation)
Airway:  Probably one of the most important things you can do after SAFETY is to make sure your dog or cat is breathing. To do this, you want to gently tap your dog or cat and call out their name to see if they move. Then (being careful not to get bitten or scratched) lean down close and LOOK, LISTEN AND FEEL for breathing.

    Look: at the chest of the animal to see if it’s moving.

    Listen: to see if you can hear them breathing.

    Feel: on your cheek or back of your hand for a breath.

Breathing:    If your dog or cat is not breathing, pull their tongue just a little bit, close the mouth and tilt their head just a little to open their Airway. Give them 4 -5 breaths from your (guess what?) mouth to their nose! This is  Mouth-to-Snout resuscitation.  You can cut off the top a plastic bottle (like a 2 liter coke bottle) to use if you are uncomfortable with the mouth to snout action.  You’ll want to give them just enough air to make the chest rise. Big dogs need more – little dogs or cats much less. Remember not to give too much air! You don’t want to hurt them.

Circulation: This means you’re checking to see if their heart is working OK. To do that you must check for a heart beat which is called a pulse. There are pulse points located in various areas on your dog or cat. For a dog the best place to find the pulse is on the inside of the rear leg, towards the top of the leg. This is called the Femoral Pulse. For a cat the best place to find the pulse is on the outside of the left front leg, just behind the shoulder. This is called an Apical Pulse.

Rescue Breathing is when you have to breath for your dog or cat because they are not breathing on their own. You do this when your dog or cat has a pulse but is not breathing.

Step 1: First do your ABC’s, don’t forget to LOOK, LISTEN, and FEEL for breathing.
Step 2: If not breathing, give 4-5 breaths using Mouth-to-Snout resuscitation.
Step 3: Check for pulse on the Femoral Artery for dogs or check the Apical Pulse for cats or really small dogs.
Step 4: If there is a pulse, but no breathing start Mouth-to-Snout resuscitation giving 1 breath every 3 seconds. For cats or really small dogs, give 1 breath every 2 seconds.

CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation)
CPR:  First do your ABC’s, don’t forget to LOOK, LISTEN, and FEEL for breathing.  CPR can only be performed if your dog or cat is not breathing and has no pulse.

Follow Steps 1,2,3 same as in Rescue Breathing. 

If there is no Pulse, start CPR

Step 4:   Dog = Place the dog on the ground or other hard surface with its right side down. Take it’s left front leg and bend at the elbow, rotating at the shoulder. The point where the elbow of the dog touches the body is where you place your hands for compressions. Put one hand on top of the other and clasp your fingers together. Lock your elbows and start performing compressions. Push approximately 2-3 inches deep. Give compressions first then a breath. After 1 minute check for a pulse. repeat if there’s no response.

 Giant Dogs = Give 1 breath every 10 compressions.

 Medium to large dogs = Give 1 breath every 5 compressions.

 Small Dogs = Give 1 breath every 5 compressions.

 Cats or really small dogs = Place the animal flat on the ground. Then put your hands on either side of the animal’s chest, right behind the shoulder blades with your palms over the heart (sandwiching the animal’s chest between both hands). Compress approximately ½ – 1 inch deep. After 1 minute, check for a pulse again.

 Cats or really small dogs = Give 1 breath every 3 compressions.